A Brief History of Pinot Noir

By Allyson Mace

Pinot Noir, named after the noble Pinot family for the pine cone shape of its grape clusters, has a twisted lineage.

Since the Roman Era, Pinot Noir has been cultivated in the Burgundy region of France when the Romans invaded Gaul in the first century AD. This vine, called vitis allobergica, was bred from wild native vines. The Gallic tribes drank a wine they made from these grapes and carefully stored their creation in wooden casks instead of the clay vases the Romans were using at the time. For 300 years the Roman Emperors envied this most unusual wine found near the Cote d'Or close to Beaune.

Centuries later, the Barbarian invaders drove the Romans out of Burgundy and, since they couldn't do without a nip now and then, the wine making was handed down to the peasants who worked the vineyards for the wealthy landowners. Raise a glass to the Catholic church: the true survival of the Pinot Noir points to the Catholic Monks who enhanced its awareness by using it in their sacraments, thus giving their general approval to this liquid luxury. As the years passed, these Monks improved the varietal with patience and meticulous experimentation. By the sixth century Burgundy was divided amongst regional churches forming multiple vineyards in the region, some ultimately sending barrels of wine to the Pope.

In 1789 the French Revolution drastically changed wine making in Burgundy. Seized vineyards from the churches were redistributed to the surviving family members of the region forming tiny vineyards that were independently run. Hence, the Burgundian system evolved and still remains.

France still holds the worlds largest planting of Pinot Noir mostly in the Cote d'Or and Champagne where its sparkle is seen in some of the world's most popular Champagnes. Pinot Noir has since found foster homes is other countries such as Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Bulgaria, Serbia, Macedonia, China, Chile, Australia, South Africa, and the western United States.

Pinot Noir began its American emergence in the 30s on the coasts of California in Napa Valley; growing steadily in the 80s California wine makers produced new uses for Pinot Noir such as Methode Champenoise used to make sparkling wines, Pinot Noir's primary use then. Wine makers continued to struggle with this fickle grape searching for more suitable climates and growing areas. Carneros, normally foggy and a poor growing area, was found to agree with the Pinot Noir grape and subsequently has produced fantastic Pinot Noirs.

In the quest for magnificent Pinot Noirs winemakers pushed further and further north to Oregon where the grape found its home away from home. Pinot Noir is now the most widely planted grape in Oregon due to the area's long, cool growing season. In Oregon, crushing of the grapes usually comes six weeks later than its neighbor to the south, California. This extra time on the vine allows the wine to develop more fully, adding complexity and structure and, most importantly, the unforgettable flavor of these northern wines. Oregon Pinot Noirs are the closest American vineyards have come to the true Burgundies from France.

Oregon Pinot Noirs are the closest American vineyards have come to the true Burgundies from France.

Typically, when purchasing a Pinot Noir consideration of the region is very important and researching the growing regions will provide further insight to the greatness of the potential purchase. Pinos typically don't age like the great Cabernets and Bordeauxs but maturity is recognizable in the first two to seven years after bottling. Some of the great years for Pinot Noirs in the U.S. were 1986 and 1990. Some conosuiers add the year 1997 to this list. Keep in mind that when buying a French Burgundy the rules change a bit; definitely research into the region it comes from helps to assure a quality purchase. Since Pinot Noir hasn't become a household name, you can enjoy the treasures with little investment.

Generally, Pinot Noir is best enjoyed with less hearty fare such as fish, pasta, salads, and most dishes you would tend to drink a big Chardonnay with. Some of the bigger Pinots will go with almost anything. So break out of the Merlot mold and enter the world of Pinot Noir! Lighten up.



Allyson Mace, a certifiable wine freak, has been a fixture on the St. Louis restaurant scene for about ten years.